How to repair or replace a condenser fan motor tips and tricks from thermal-medics.com

The easy guide to changing a condenser fan motor. Save hundreds of dollars doing this yourself.  If you need help wiring it up drop me a line at http://www.thermal-medics.com/  ENJOY!!!!

Seriously it is not rocket science folks.  You will be amazed at how much fun you will have learning about your system while saving money. That is what it is all about here.

Merritt
7/2/2012  PHX

The step-by-step guide on how to diagnose your air conditioner problem and save a pile of cash.

Ok you want it you got it from Merritt at thermal-medics.com

Here is the step by step methodology known as a/c troubleshooting.  How to diagnose your air conditioner or HVAC system in an ordered, methodical and proven way to get the answers you need.  If you take some time, get educated, watch the videos at http://www.thermal-medics.com/ that I have made you can save a lot of money.  Commission based A/C techs love nothing more than an ignorant consumer.  They can sell you anything from a surge protector to float switch to even up to a new unit for a simple run capacitor or burnt wire.  Read "the worst a/c story ever" if you need any more encouragement.

• Is air blowing from the registers? Yes or no

1. yes, is it warm (ambient) or a little cool or actually hot (on a demand for cool)?
2. is the condenser fan motor and compressor also operating?

• if all motors are operating and you are getting warm to ambient air than probably a refrigerant issue
• that can come in the form of low refrigerant (slow leaks) 
• big leaks
• leaking reversing valve if a heat pump
• clogged metering device (txv, fixed orifice, or capillary tube)
• duct leaks

• if air is warm at registers check condenser fan motor and compressor - if not operating check run capacitors to see if bulged or popped - follow link to photos at the image glossary
• does the condenser fan blade turn freely with a long-handled screwdriver? or is it binding up?
• binding up usually means it is seized up - freely could still be good  - test the run cap first before replacing the condenser fan motor - awesome video here on tips and tricks
• compressor may or may not start back up if run cap on fan motor is popped - it has an internal overload protection that must reset at appx 115 degrees to operate again.  I sometimes use bags of ice to cool down the compressor quickly in a pinch - or just have a cold one..

1. Is there a breath of air at the registers - it may be cool but very low airflow?

• dirty evap coil
• leak in ductwork (see the door trick article) on right side of home page
• very dirty filter (very rare)
• if this is the case the compressor and outdoor fan motor will probably trip on overload

How to clean an evap coil properly?  Call or email me at thermal-medics.com 

1. no, when you operate the thermostat does any other modes work (i.e. fan to on or heat??)
2. is there ice on the big copper pipe (suction line) when the outdoor unit (compressor, condenser fan motor) comes on? if yes than shut off the system to avoid adding a 0 to your final repair bill.

1. No no other modes work and nothing at all comes on - indoor or out - dead as a doornail:

• control problem
• change batteries in t-stat
• float switch backed up
• 5amp fuse in air handler (there is a reason it popped - gotta find out why)
• transformer blew (it happens)
• bad wiring
• main breaker for whole unit

This is just a short list to get you going the right way and keep the dirt bag salesman 'techs' from ripping you a new one on a service call.  Call or email me anytime for detailed step-by-step help to get to the root of the matter and often times fix your unit yourself.  Read the testamonials -  if you give me 10 minutes I can save you hundreds of dollars!! 

Merritt  info@thermal-medics.com

Freon (r-22) leak on a Rheem split system called in to the website - this one is hissing like an AZ Diamondback

Great guy called me in to find out the real deal on a possible leak he had.  Local 'father and son' company wanted $925 just to get the ball rolling with a blank check on repairs.  You guys are too savvy for that sort of game.  Dropped by his house and hooked up the dry nitrogen tank. In 5 minutes it was so obvious it made me sick the first tech had a straight face to write up the 'estimate'.   Oh well, happens every day out here:  Watch and enjoy....

What do the parts and refrigerant really cost an HVAC contractor?

Well, lets go through some of the basics.  Of course that dosent answer why they mark them up 300% (there are some legitimate reasons for mark-up but lets keep it real)  but just in case you were curious here you go:

1. r-22 $350 a 30lb jug - retails for $40-80 installed PER POUND!! - they make at least $800 a jug
2. run capacitors $5-$15 - you pay $80 to $200 installed (yes attaching a couple of wires)
3. contactors - a personal favorite for all the tune up calls cost $12 and $100 at least installed (more hooking up wires).
4. transformers - $15 cost and at least $150 installed
5. indoor coil cleaning $150 - you can get the spray cleaner and soft brush for $10
6. A/C tune up?  endless possibilities here for them to sell you more crap - your cost to do preventative maintenance? $0
7. 5-2-1 compressor savers AKA hard start kits cost $40 installed $150 - three wires to hookup

Ok you have to be comfortable working around your unit.  Get educated.  Go to thermal-medics.com and watch the videos... the content is out there and it is FREE.  CALL OR EMAIL ME, THAT IS WHAT I DO, I HELP YOU!!!  You have the power to save money and learn what is going on out there, and trust me, when you do the fix you will actually feel pretty manly!!

Last point: If you don't want to DIY is it worth paying for quality. YES!!!!! Finding the quality is the hard part.  Look for my next article about choosing a contractor to do the best work for the money.  You may have already read my "low bid is not always the best' and that is true.  If you want quality workmanship at fair prices you have to do the legwork.  Otherwise you prey


Stop by the website at http://www.thermal-medics.com/ for more free content, videos and questions answered.

Hail Damage on air conditioning units in the Phoenix area - What you need to know from thermal-medics.com

The residents of Phoenix felt nature's wrath on October 5th 2010.  Now, thunderstorms and small hail is not uncommon during our monsoon season, but this one was a whopper.  We had a very intense group of thunderstorm cells move through the valley and drop an incredible amount of large hail.  There is a  you tube video from a backyard during the storm.

Now how does this effect your A/C and why are we talking about it?  Take a look at some condenser coil fins after the storm:

another beauty:

This created a little 'boom' in the local economy.  For up to a year after the storm every man, woman and child was out roaming the streets offering to replace your A/C, roof, car windshield - anything that they could get a claim though the insurance.  Some serious crookery went on as high bids came in, adjusters were swamped and homeowners were stoked!!!

Now we are on the other side of this.  Many people had some damage but not enough to file a claim. Some didn't even know what happened to their unit and others had units installed but the hackery in some of the jobs left them with a new unit that never operated at full capacity.  Now we are past the one year point, most insurance companies will not let homeowners file a claim.

Lets talk about what happens when the condenser coil fins get bent like this.  The condenser (in A/C mode) whole purpose in life is to give up or reject the heat that the refrigerant picks up as it travels through the evaporator.  In other words the compressor squeezes the refrigerant, raising the temperature and pressure and as that hot gas is cooled in the condenser it........condenses into a liquid.  Now that hot liquid is free to travel back to the evaporator and pass through a metering device (TXV, capillary tube or fixed orifice) to expand cool and pick up that heat as the air in the living space is passed over it.  REMEMBER IN A/C AND REFRIGERATION ALL WE ARE DOING IS MOVING HEAT - NOT COOLING AIR - THAT IS THE RESULT OF REMOVING THE HEAT!!!!

This is why when you put your hand above the condenser fan,  the air is hotter than Hades.  It is pulling say 100 degree air from the outside across a 130 degree hot gas copper line and you now have 130 degree air blown up into the sky.  That 30 degree difference is the heat picked up by the refrigerant from the living space and a little from the heat of compression. We are moving the heat from the inside of your house to the outside air above your house!!

NOW, when you coil fins get all bent out of shape the airflow is restricted and A/C units hate restrictions to airflow.  The refrigerant cannot give up that heat as efficiently because the cooling area is reduced.  Now the temperatures and pressures will run hot, the evaporator is not getting to designed cooling temps and finally you are here wondering why your unit runs all day but never seems to cool to desired temps.

Condenser fins can be combed out to a certain degree.  This is a delicate process and must be done with a special tool.  It is effective unless the coils look like the pictures above then you just have to throw in the towel.  There are not replacement parts for horribly bent fins. 

If you have any questions on hail damage, air conditioning capacity, and the effect this all may have or have had on your unit call me or write in to http://www.thermal-medics.com/  If you suspect poor workmanship or have questions about an install do the same.  Send pictures, drawings... anything than can help.

Why has the price of R-22 doubled this year?

R-22 is the original refrigerant known as freon.  The EPA has determined it is a greenhouse gas and mandated the elimination over time of its use.  In January of 2012 the EPA mandated a 45% reduction in the price of r-22.  Thus the price of it per pound to you, the customer doubled. 

Now the origin of this whole greenhouse gas thing has to do with global warming etc at least on the official level.  The rumor mill has it more to deal with the patent loss by Du Pont of r-22 and the associated profits in making the gas.  R-410a is the replacement refrigerant but, of course, it is not a drop in replacement.  You need a new unit.   You can understand contractors, the federal government and Du Pont were giddy when they figured this out. 

There really is no drop in replacement to r-22.  Although I work on systems that are 25 years old and more the cost of doing a compressor replacement or adding gas to a leak in a unit now makes replacement more appealing.  Of course for contractors replacement means more profits.  They will be plugging the 'new unit' pitch all summer to everyone that will listen.

Bottom line you cant fight the man and when you have the power of government and big business on one side look out!!

You do have options.  You do not just have to buy a new unit.  Call or email me to get more info and guidance on what you can do to protect yourself.

For more free help and info from Phoenix's own A/C help site go to http://www.thermal-medics.com/.

The run capacitor game show from thermal-medics.com

Ok guys here is a quick and fun video on testing a run capacitor with a multi meter.  I go through a dual run capacitor and two single run caps to test for MFD or microfarad.  Just having some fun in the shop and what you can look for when you are diagnosing a bad run cap.  Enjoy

for more free video content and info visit http://www.thermal-medics.com/ the best and only free a/c and heat pump help site from Phoenix, AZ.

Am I getting ripped off by my AC guy????

Wow, that is not always an easy question to answer.  There is always the chance you are going to get something you don't need.  That is the problem when most residential a/c technicians are paid based on commission.  Sometimes it is so obvious when someone calls me or sends me an email telling me what service they had done or the line that came out of a tech's mouth trying to sell something.  Other times it is not that obvious.  Here are some ways you can protect yourself and keep out of the sights of a scam A/C company. 

1. If you get that 'funny' feeling just stop and get a written bid and say thank you.   You can always call or write into me to see if it passes the sniff test.

2. Never feel pressured to make a decision NOW!!  Oh my goodness you are in imminent threat of death or dismemberment if you don't get a new unit.  Ok, you get the idea.  Now I know in July in Phoenix it is tough to put off someone when all you want is to make dinner and get the kids to bed and your a/c is out.  Trust me, companies know this and capitalize on it.  Slow down, take a deep breath, is it reasonable what I am being charged? Does the malfunction the tech explains make sense or are you back to #1 on the list????

3.Get educated.  I hate it when people call me to ask about a fix or a price and they don't bother to learn the basics on how the system works.  It really is not rocket science.  If you live next to the beach and you have very little need of A/C than good for you.  More than likely if you are reading this you do not and like most of us, you need cooling like you need hot water.  Phoenix would not be the metropolitan area of 3 million plus without it.  Watch some videos, poke around your system, otherwise you are just a mark.  Above all ASK QUESTIONS!!!

4.Ratings services (angie's list, yelp, etc) and even the BBB and the Registrar of Contractors do not help when weeding out the bad apples.  The ratings services are based on 'customer reviews.'  Wow, it takes me (and I am a little slow) all of 2 seconds to realize how that can be fraudulent or falsified.  The BBB is also not a guarantee.  It is also a paid membership, so yes a small conflict of interest.  Last the ROC or Registrar of Contractors.  They regulate who gets a license to do any residential or commercial HVAC work.  They do a pretty good job of following up on complaints but like any government agency they get swamped.  Also just because you hire a 'licensed contractor' does not mean the tech that comes out to your house didn't just get out of trade school.  The company is licensed but the guys in the field may be the bottom barrel in troubleshooting or need to boost their sales to keep a job.  I have seen better work by unlicensed guys that work under the 'handyman exemption' (jobs under $1000) than I have by many licensed contractors.  It all comes down to the individual.  Get referrals, talk to people and if you are not sure - CALL ME!!!



Now in defense of the honest contractor out there:

They run a business and it is very competitive.  For an honest contractor, you compete against all the dirt bags that hack up jobs, low bid on everything and up sell the rest.  They have to charge what is fair.  There is a flat-rate book out there.  Ask for it.  It gives pricing for repairs and should be a guide for contractors, not a starting point.

Leaking freon from a package unit - New videos from thermal-medics.com

Crazy leak in the crazy summer of 2011.  Kept this unit as a souvenir ( I know I am weird).  Good example of what using nitrogen does to help leak test a unit.  Enjoy and check out the main site at http://www.thermal-medics.com/ for more free help, videos and fun!!  The only free a/c help site from Phoenix, AZ.

R-22 vs. R-410a Let's get ready to ruuuuuumble!!!!

Having some fun discussing the differences between the two main refrigerants.  You can tell pretty quick which side I am on....

Major leak on a rooftop package unit!!!

Have not seen one this bad in awhile.  Got a call from a fellow in Las Vegas.  He noticed an oiley goo all under his 5 ton package rooftop unit.  He thought it was oil and wanted to know what was going on and the DIY fix he might be able to do .

Maaaaaan, I thought the compressor plug blew out or something big to dump all that oil and gas out at once. I asked him to pull power to the unit and look around at some usual suspects.  He called me back in half an hour with the spot.  It was a pinch off tube that cracked.  Now these come from the factory and once the unit is charged the tube is pinched off and a little silver solder/braze is put in to seal it. 

I walked him through the steps that he would have to go through to get the unit back up and running.

It was a strange one and also on a package unit.  Typically the heavy leakers are the split systems.

Check out some new videos on the main site http://www.thermal-medics.com/ or call/email with any comments or questions.

What is the deal with A/C units and tonnage? How is a system sized properly?

Ok these are some quick and dirty rules of thumb when describing A/C tonnage, BTU's and how to size a unit for a home.

One ton of cooling = 12000 BTUS and is designed to cool approximately 400 square feet of living space.
So, if you have a 2000 square foot home you might have one 5 ton unit or two units a 2 and a 3 ton.
These are rough numbers so your results may vary.  When your home was built someone (hopefully) did a calculation to determine what size unit to put on that particular home.  If the home was made of glass then obviously the unit would be sized larger, for example.  I live in a 3200 square foot home but get by with a 3 ton split and a 3.5 split system.  A little undersized but I have returns that go under the concrete slab and 2x6 framing with good insulation.  My system is sized properly.

Now why not just upgrade the unit and stick a couple of 4 ton units at my place? I mean more is better right? NOOOOOOOO!  My units run often during the summer but they turn on and stay on.  If I upped the size of the units then they would 'short cycle'.  A fancy way of saying turn on and off all the time.  If I selected 77 degrees at the thermostat and the unit kicked on at 78 it would pull down to 77 in a hurry, no doubt.  But, and here is the kicker, it would not run long enough to dehumidify the air and thus run back up to 78 in short order and the cycle repeats, over and over again.

The hardest thing for any motor, and I don't care if it is your lawn mower, car, ceiling fan or A/C unit is to turn on.  The amp draw of an electric motor is higher at start up to overcome the torque necessary to get up to speed. Example, my compressor will momentarily draw 60+ amps at start up and then run at 14 amps.  That is a lot of heat in a short amount of time and motors HATE heat.  It is their Achilles heel.

Last how can you tell how many tons your unit is.  Look on the name plate on the unit.  You will find on the model number a few numbers and letters and then typically a 0 followed by a number divisible by 12.

Example:  Lennox model 13hpd 036 230

The 036 is the giveaway that this is a three ton unit - it moves 36000 BTU's of heat in cooling mode.  A five ton of the same model Lennox would be  Lennox model 13hpd 060 230.

You may have a unit that you think is undersized.  In Phoenix it runs a lot in the summer but the rest of the year it kicks on and off as needed.  This is ok as long as the unit is mechanically sound and in fact good for it.  Remember the starting and stopping is what is bad for the unit.  Airflow ect.  are totally different issues.

For more helpful tips and questions answered visit my free A/C help site at http://www.thermal-medics.com/ and please, call me or email if you have any questions..

Got a leak in your unit? - Odds favor these culprits from thermal-medics.com

Ok you notice your A/C is not keeping up to the desired temperature selected at the thermostat.    Or it may just be running all day just to keep your home cool.  A common problem we see out in the field are leaks in the refrigerant system. 

Let's get this straight first off, the refrigerant in your system is a closed system.  It does not use up any gas to run but the level should stay the same.  In fact you can look on the nameplate of your unit and find out how much refrigerant and what type you have if you wish.  You will start to notice a degradation of your units efficiency when it is approximately 2 lbs (give or take low).   Also there may be enough refrigerant to run your system fine in April or May but in Phoenix in July it just can't keep up.

Split systems have more leaks than package units.  That is just a fact.  There are copper pipes that have to be brazed in the field during installation and that always will increase the likelihood of leaks.  Package units are just that, from the factory, sealed and typically pretty solid.

An easy DIY troubleshooting technique to see if you have a leak is to feel the refrigerant pipes.  The larger one (suction line) should be cool to cold to the touch and the liquid line (smaller one) should be warm to hot.  If the pipes are lukewarm or if you have frost on the suction line a refrigerant leak may be the culprit.

Where do leaks happen?  Here is a short list that the odds favor.

Schrader valves where Techs hook up manifold gauges
Service valves (next to schraeder valves)
any brazed joint
indoor or evaporator coil (rusting out/pinhole leaks)

You can do a visual inspection of these areas if you choose.  Another dead giveaway is oil stains.  Oil travels in the refrigerant and any leak will leave traces of oil.  For example, the schrader valve caps have oil in them, etc.

Techs will use a nitrogen charge to pressure test the system and sometimes use a dye as well.

How are leaks repaired?  Once found they can be brazed shut, shcrader valve cores replaced and in the case of evaporator coils they can be replaced or you can use a can of Super Seal in the system.  I have seen 60 to 70% success rates with this product.

For more help or to ask specific questions email me at info@thermal-medics.com or visit the free help website at http://www.thermal-medics.com/.

Take a tour of the outdoor unit of a heat pump

Here is a quick video of an outdoor unit of a Lennox 3 ton heat pump.  It will give you some idea of the terminology used and can be a reference for problems and repairs. Enjoy..

For more free help and questions answered visit http://www.thermal-medics.com/   Call or email anytime.  Get educated, get informed and save money..

more free A/C videos here

Hands down the worst A/C story ever......

Ok, first of all I know this is not some urban legend in the HVAC world, but it easily could be.  I know this individual and I believe his story.

Back up 15 years or so in Phoenix during a hot summer.  This fellow was just out of trade school and got his first job at a small Dad and son outfit.  Well, of course, he was nervous and wanted to make a good impression.  He rode with the dad on day one. (another story-another day) He rode with the son on day two.The first call was some routine, low freon, gas-n-go.  The next was one for the ages.

They knocked on the door and an elderly woman answers and says her A/C is blowing hot air.  Granted it is in June so things are heating up quick and she only has one unit.  During the course of the discussion the 'son' finds out she is a widow recently and she does not know much about A/C (except it dosent work).  Well the two pull the ladders and go up on the roof for a look.  Package unit, pretty straightforward.  The new guy looks in from the top and notices a lead on the compressor is burned off.  He tells the 'son' thinking, "Wow, I just proved myself."  The son grunts and says lets go on back down. He tells the new guy to go wait in the truck while he talks to the customer. When the son returns he says lets go out and get a bite to eat and get a couple of things.

By now the new guy is confused. First they stop for a burger and the son pays.  He gets a whole speech about how tough the business is, blah blah blah...Then they go get the local newspaper from the convenience store.  Next they stop by a hardware store and get two cans of black lacquer spray paint.  (Oh no, you say but yes they do).

They return to the home, remove the top, fix the wire for .25 cents and layout the newspaper.  They spray paint the compressor a shiny new black and put it all back together.  $650 later they are out the door with a 'new compressor' installed.

You are asking does this kind of $xxt really happen? Yes it does.  Your job is to get educated, ask questions and be involved.  I got into this trade after my parents were scammed by some local dirtbags. Do I want to get even, yes.  This is why I write this stuff down and share it.

By the way did you know if you have only one unit in your home and have small children or elderly folks living there some, reputable, companies will prioritize your call. Make sure if you know someone who is older and lives alone has that information....Anyone can contact me at http://www.thermal-medics.com/ or pick up the phone to call.  My phone number is on the website.  I don't care if you call or email from Fargo or Florida I will get back to you and I will answer your questions.  The website and this blog are FREE for anyone, DIY, homeowners, general questions or anything related to heat pumps and A/C units.

That time of year for the old A/C 'tune-up' calls...ughhhhh.

Ok everyone, I have a little video on the old A/C 'Tune-up" deal.  Usually the only thing that is getting tuned up is your wallet.  Preventative maintenance is something else and I will post a quick list of things you can DIY or ask about when you have it done.  Enjoy...

Is your A/C giving you "static"??

In response to Mike V. in Lakeland Fl. a question about static electricity and HVAC units.

Here in the Valley of the Sun we have notoriously dry weather and low humidity.  A complaint I run into now and again is usually offhand but very telling.

"We have so much static in our house, we are always shocking each other."  Of course the kids love it but here is what may be going on and how to correct it.

Your Air Conditioning system is designed to move heat.  That's it.  During the summer it moves the heat from indoors to the outside via the refrigerant and then blows it into the air by way of the condenser fan.  Water carries a lot of heat.  When the humid air blows past your evaporator coil that is in the 40 degree range guess what? The water condenses and flows (hopefully) outside.

Now the idea is for that de-humidified, cool air to travel back to the conditioned space and you to go about life.  Here is where the 'static' starts.  If your blower motor (in the air handler or on the rooftop on a packaged unit) is set to too low a speed the air from the return stays in contact with the coil longer.  How much longer?  Who knows, but it is just long enough to remove too much humidity and make your living space dry as a bone.

What can we do?  Simply speed up the blower motor.  Usually the fan motor has multiple speeds and the fan can be sped up to the next faster to stop all of your static problems, that is, unless your kids need something to do indoors in the summer!

For help on changing your blower speeds yourself or any A/C or Heat Pump related questions you can write me here or at http://www.thermal-medics.com/.

Does your return air grille whistle- Do this to fix it and increase airflow

If you have one of the return air grilles pictured below in your ceiling or wall, listen up.  The fins are angled to hide those ugly filters we put there to keep our coil and air clean.  The downside to the bend in the grille is a reduction in airflow and sometimes a nasty whistle.  Do yourself a favor, go out to a big box store and get a sheetmetal hand seamer tool (or borrow from someone).  Straighten out those grill vents and you will increase your airflow 20% RIGHT NOW.  Don't worry the grille will not break just take the seamers and straighten them out in one motion.  Check out http://www.thermal-medics.com/ for more great DIY and helpful advice.  You can call or email for free your questions, problems or concerns.

How do I know I have a duct leak? The old door trick....

Many times I have walked up to a customer's door, knocked , have the door open, and then either almost had my baseball hat blown off or felt like I was being sucked into a black hole.  What does this have to do with duct leaks you may ask??? Everything, including where the leak is.

Often times a leak is subtle or the home is large, so I use an infrared thermometer to shoot each vent.  I am looking for consistency with slight variation due to where the register is relative to the air handler.  Farther away from the air handler, I typically see a 2 to 3 degree rise in the supply air temp as it travels through the flex.  On a properly charged system I should see a 20 degree split between the supply air (at the register) and the return (at the air filter you hopefully change).  If I come across a grille that is way off, I'm looking at that one for a leak. 

This is where some attic work is required to inspect the flex attachment to the collar.  Often times the equivalent of a zip tie is used to attach the flex duct to the collar.  Over the years the heat, and especially Arizona attics (140 degrees or more), will break down the zip tie and they snap.  The supply air will be blowing all over the place except down the register.  A new zip  and you are back in business.

Return air leaks are a little tougher.  They can show up using manifold gauges (the hoses and gauges we use to check freon levels) but all that says is you have high pressures or a lot of heat in the system.  Many techs may misdiagnose this as overcharged (too much freon in the system) or go looking for dirty outdoor coils etc...  This is where the door check tells it all.

When you close up all the doors and windows in the house you have a decent seal.  Not perfect and you don't want perfect, you want your house to breath a little bit.  When you crack a door you will feel the airflow.  Which way is it blowing?

If the outdoor air is being sucked in you have a supply line leak and if the air blows out the door than your leak is in the return side.  Here is why.  The attic has louvers and openings in it so it can breath with the outdoor air.  If your return is leaking than the air handler is sucking in hot attic air (in unlimited supply with no resistance) across the coil and blowing into the home.  In a sense pressurizing the home.  The reverse in a supply or cold line leak.  The air handler is sucking in as much as it can because it now has not resistance on the supply side.  It can blow all day into the attic. 

So if your doors are a-whistling you may want to check out your duct work for any leakage.  Now you know which side of the duct is leaking before you climb in that attic.  For more tips and free A/C and Heat Pump DIY and troubleshooting help visit http://www.thermal-medics.com/.

Thinking about a new unit?? LOW BID is not always the best!!

After personally installing a lot of new units I can tell you one fact of life in the HVAC field.  THE QUALITY OF THE INSTALL IS WAY MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE BRAND YOU CHOOSE.  I have seen top of the line Lennox equipment installed so poorly it runs worse than the lowest-end trash you could find anywhere.  Same on the flip-side. 

Phoenix is a hotbed of new installs and competition is fierce.  We experienced an unusually large hail storm in October 2010 that gave a mini-boom to the new install market.  Guys were running around tripping over each other to declare hail damage to your condenser coil and to serve up a new unit ASAP.  Now you can only imagine what a $10 per hour Craiglist ad for installers would do when it met this great demand.  Boom!! Leaky duct work, rooftop units not level etc....

Now, you may be thinking of getting a new unit or units.  There are many reasons, the price of R-22 freon is blasting higher (see blog entry below), your unit is more than 15 years old with a major repair on it (compressor, indoor/outdoor coil, etc), or maybe you just want to cash in on rebates. Great, where to start???

Get bids.....I know it takes time but get referrals, call around, call me, anything but get as many as you can stand.  Do you need financing or can you pay cash?  Cash is king in the new unit business.  Can you buy the unit during the off-season???  July is super busy for everyone and you will get in line and pay a premium but January is dead as a doornail in Phoenix...  Is your unit going to be an easy install?  It makes a huge difference to us, when looking at a job, as to where the existing unit is and how easy it is to access it.  You can remind your bidders of this fact when they show up.  Call me or send me some pics and I can help you out with this..

Beware of low bids and bids over the phone.  You will find most bids within a range of $1000 to $1500 dollars.  If you get a ridiculously low bid, be careful and ask some more questions, there is a reason why.  Check out all bidders license info against the Registrar of Contractors in your state and BBB for open complaints and ratings.  Ask for references on their new installs and call the references to see how they like their new unit.Yelp and most rating sites are so corrupted now, who knows...

We never, ever, bid over the phone.  There are just too many variables we can't account for out there and must see the job in person to be fair to everyone involved.  When you decide on who to go with, both of you should sign the bid making it a contract.  Don't be afraid to ask for some freebies, a touchscreen thermostat, etc.  You are still the customer.

Last but not least is the warranty.  I am not too concerned with labor warranty and at least 2 years should be standard but getting a unit that has a 10 year warranty on parts and the compressor is great insurance in case anything goes wrong with the unit.  Many new units offer lifetime compressor warranties.  Good luck out there and let me know if you have any questions.  I can be reached at my website http://www.thermal-medics.com/.  Last note, some big-box retailers offer displays on new A/C units.  These companies are not always good.  They piggyback on the name of the store but, at least in Phoenix, are way overpriced and do terrible work with tons of complaints.  Just do your research, don't assume they are endorsed by the store and have a clue.....

R-22 vs R-410a

Ok this is a debate that goes way back. Let's give a quick history lesson on refrigerants.  Old man DuPont was said to have been interrupted by an engineer with an interesting discovery. Ammonia would pick up heat and transfer it.  Evaporation and condensation could be controlled in a sealed chamber and used to make ice quickly.  Thus refrigeration was born.

R-22 or known by its trade name, Freon, has been used for as long as I can remember in residential air conditioning units.  Its little brother, R-12, was awesome at small, lower temp, systems like car A/C units.
Well as concern about the ozone layer, global warming etc.. began to take hold there was a call to slowly reduce the amount of R-22 out there.  R-12 had been successfully replaced by R-134 (in your car a/c or refrigerator) so why couldn’t we do the same with R-22. 

DuPont now came up with R-410a.  A blend of refrigerants that is marketed as a "green" alternative to R-22.  You still cannot vent R-410a into the atmosphere and service techs must charge or add the refrigerant in liquid form because it is a blend.  If you add it as a vapor some of the refrigerant will not make it into the unit so you will see techs stand the bottles upside down when charging.

Bottom line.  R410a does work, but the price is higher operating pressures in the system for the same cooling capacity as R-22.  The refrigerant is not what gives your unit the high SEER rating.  It is simply the size of the condenser and if you are using variable speed motors.  We can debate global warming and that would go on forever but the powers that be have just mandated a 45% reduction in the amount of R-22 produced in 2012.  That has made the price of R-22 jump almost 100% in the Phoenix area alone.

It may have to be a factor in deciding what to do with your old unit.  If there are small, pinhole leaks there are products that can self seal in the unit and prolong the life.  If you need more info on these or anything related to A/C or heat pump systems call or email me at http://www.thermal-medics.com/.

Where can I find A/C and heat pump parts?????

Ok, great question.  You can go into the large home improvement warehouses and buy chainsaws, table saws, electrical panels up to 460 volts as well as many home items that will kill you in quick order if you dont know how to use them.

If you go in and ask for a condenser fan motor the guy/gal (if you can find one) gives a blank look and points over by the swamp cooler stuff. They are not there.  The blue home improvement store has a few duct work items including flex duct, elbows, pookie (white mastic for patching leaky vents) but thats it.

So who do I call to get my run capacitor, contactor, condenser fan motor..

Well if you live in the greater Phoenix area go here

http://www.thermal-medics.com/a-c-parts-here/ - A/C and HVAC parts directly to the public for Phoenix, Ahwatukee, Chandler, Tempe, Mesa etc.  Basically call and I will get you what you need with the technical support to get the job done..

In other parts of the country and if you can wait you can try a myriad of online retailers.

follow me at http://www.thermal-medics.com/ to get access to a ton of free diy help and contact info

What the heck is a heat pump?

A heat pump is simply an air conditioning unit that can work in reverse.  Ok, let me back up.  The definition of air conditioning is the movement of heat from somewhere it is not wanted to somewhere else. Where? Who cares just not in our house in Phoenix in July!!!.  That heat that is removed from our comfy homes that we keep at 78 degrees is moved outside through the refrigerant and then transferred out of a condenser coil via the fan.  Have you ever felt how hot the air blowing out of the condenser fan is?  On average it is 30 degrees warmer than the outside air temp. So a 110 degree day in Phoenix will have 140 degree air blowing out of the condenser fan.  Hmmmmm, could be a reason we change so many condenser fan motors in the summer around here...

OK, so if an air conditioner moves heat outside, then in reverse, a heat pump moves heat inside the conditioned space.  The coils (condenser and evaporator) reverse roles and hot gas is redirected indoors (via the reversing valve) during the winter and our cold house air blows across the coil and voila!! it is now warm.

Heat pumps are great but they have their limitations.  If temperatures drop below the mid 30 degree range they start to loose their power.  They need to find heat outside to transfer to the refrigerant and there just is not enough at the lower temperatures.  That is why heat pumps work great in Phoenix but not so hot in Omaha.  Sometime there are heat strips or small heating coils that can provide supplemental heat but by and large gas is the best option in real cold weather climates.

Heat pumps must also have an additional part known as a defrost board.  Over time the outdoor coil will get cold and any moisture will adhere to the coil and freeze.  The defrost board checks the coil temperature from time-to-time to see if it must redirect hot gas to the outdoor coil to melt that ice.  Many problems with heat pumps during the winter revolve around the defrost board and its operation (or lack thereof).  For more tips and help troubleshooting heat pumps and air conditioners or if you want to DIY your next project visit me at http://www.thermal-medics.com/diy-ers/ for more.

Here is a photo of a frosted up heat pump.